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San Francisco Chronicle, March 27, 2003
From the Wine Column by Patrick J. Comiskey, Sommelier Selections:
Journeys in a glass at EOS
EOS Restaurant and Wine Bar has always been a neighborhood place - it's just
that Cole Valley is hardly an ordinary neighborhood.
As the restaurant came of age, property values skyrocketed and the well-
heeled neighbors came to eat chef Arnold Wongâs adventurous and playful riffs
on a host of Asian cuisines. And they came for the restaurant's wine program
one of most whimsical of its time which featured a huge, number of rarities
by the glass.
The dot-com millionaires have long since sold their homes and moved back to
Ohio. Wong has refashioned the menu for Asian small plates ö everything under
$15 - and wine director Darin Snow has recalibrated the wine list, making it
a little leaner and a little less high-end (EOS has always had a very low
markup on its wines) yet every bit as interesting.
And it's still designed to pair with pan-Asian food, which means low-oak,
high-acid wines juicy Beaujolais, Austrian Grunel Veltliners and the racy new
line Australian Rieslings.
The by-the-glass program remains one of the most creative in San Francisco.
Ten different win flights are available on any given night, drawn from about
50 wine by the glass, available in 2 or 4 ounce pours. You can compare the
world's Chardonnays in one course, Syrahs and Shirazes the next.
"Originally," says Snow, 33, "we would kick off each week with a guest
winemaker or importer of the featured wines. And even though these events
were hugely successful, we learned people wanted more. Currently, we run
everything from a Red, White & Rose flight to a California Spice Flight."
Flights change almost daily, making EOS a great place for experimentation.
Food and wine pairing: Pierre Robert cheese and nonvintage Bollinger Special
Cuvee Champagne ($85). "Champagne is not just a great celebration wine, it is
also an excellent wine with food," Snow says. "Pierre Robert, a triple cream
cow's milk, is like a cheese made with creme fraiche. The popcorn toastiness
of a Champagne like the nonvintage Bollinger Special Cuvee and the cleansing
acids in the finish balance the rich, creamy decadence of the cheese."
Current staff favorite: 2000 Brandborg Napa Valley Charbono ($36). "As
Zinfandel prices soar, the rise in similar varieties such as Charbono gives
consumers more selections. At $36, this intense, jammy and deep-purple-
colored wine has it all. Wonderful combination of blackberry huckleberry and
spices. A great accompaniment to the heartier dishes, it is a great
opportunity for the staff to introduce a new wine with a little familiarity.ä
Current passion: "A section I call 'Back of the Teeth Reds' devoted to those
chewy reds like Charbono and Petite Sirah that can keep you warm on those
chilly foggy Cole Valley nights."
Most exciting wines by the glass: 2001 Peay Vineyards Sonoma Coast Roussanne
($15 or $7.50 for 4- or 2-ounce tastes). "To be able to offer this wine by
the glass, with a production of 100 cases total, is what the EOS wine bar is
all about. (This is) perhaps the best example of Roussanne from the New
World yet. Finding this wine, before it disappeared and being able to
introduce a varietal few have heard of by the glass begins to push the
boundaries of white wine."
Most underrated region: Languedoc in France. "With our budgets limited from a
few years ago, finding good wines and good values doesn't have to be hard.
This region has been producing great wine for centuries, but with Burgundy,
Bordeaux and the Rhône Valley prices climbing, here is the answer. Syrah,
Cabernet and other popular varieties from this region can be a wine bargain
hunter's dream."
Most unjustly overlooked wine: Marsanne. "Marsanne is a grape with
humility. When pairing wines with food, an important characteristic is
texture. Marsanne has an incredible texture. The, creamy, silky texture makes
it an ideal food wine. This versatility makes it an ideal white wine to serve
throughout your meal."
Advice for the adventurous diner: When out-to dinner, especially in a wine
bar like EOS, don't be afraid to experiment with new wines. Explain to your
sommelier or waiter what you like about a wine, but be open to new
experiences."
If I could change everyone's wine tastes just for a day, I would have
them: ãThink white when pairing wine with cheese. We often think wine and
cheese are a great combination, but too often we assume red wine. Reds are
great matches for harder and aged cow's milk cheeses, but white wines from
Burgundy and the Rhône Valley can be magical combinations with softer,
younger goat's milk cheeses. Perhaps one of the most beautiful pairings is
Chablis and a fresh goat's milk cheese. Instead of port and blue, try a late-
harvest Riesling or Sauternes."
What the chef has with his meal: 2000 Henschke Littlehampton Innes Vineyard
Pinot Gris, from Australia. "The lime zest and lilac-scented nose and slight
off-dry quality of this wine, along with its silky texture, make it
refreshing and a great pairing with the Grilled Thai Spiced Pork Tenderloin,
Kaffir-Braised Red Cabbage and Cranberry Gastric or Tea-Smoked Peking Duck
Breast with a Plum-Shiso Compote."
Note: EOS Restaurant & Wine Bar is at 901 Cole St., San Francisco; (415) 566-
3063.
Patrick J. Comiskey is a senior editor for Wine & Spirits Magazine. E-mail
him at wine@sfchronicIe.com.
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